It's 1221


Chanel’s Paper Dolls
28 January, 2009, 7:34 PM
Filed under: Uncategorized
Of late, the house of Chanel presented extravagant studded, bedazzled, and perhaps gaudy pieces; a lot of high-volume drama (see Paris-Moscou collection, December 2008). But Coco Chanel’s enterprise began under the premise of providing simple, elegant looks and it was the wearer who brought the clothing to
life. Fashion, to Mademoiselle, was not about letting the clothes wear you, but you wearing the clothes. 
I wondered just how big these fashion shows could get before they reached the tipping point and combusted in a swirl of confetti, glitter, and hair spray. Chanel’s mega-carousel on the runway was one thing, then the Fendi show that Lagerfeld designed and staged on the Great Wall of China… this man dreams B I G. However, this collection was an explosion of talent minus all the distracting do-das.
There was no shortage of work to be done. A team of 40 workers spent 15 weeks constructing the 6,700 flower pieces out of a glass-based paper. Certainly the embroiderers at Lesage’s atelier labored countless hours to assemble the delicate paper flowers attached to the ensembles. The paper headpieces were by Katsuya Kamo of hair-styling fame. 
 
Lagerfeld’s primarily white palette is purely exhilarating. Combining chiffon, lace, feathers, sequins, beads, and twinkling stripes seemed to imitate the glistening promise of a blank canvas before an artist touches it with his genius. No wimpy pastels and no overly romanticized artifacts of other shows.      
     

Seamlessly tapping into Mademoiselle’s energy, Lagerfeld unleashed a collection of square-shouldered tops, cropped jackets, slim ankle-length pants skimmed each body like a brushstroke. There’s a reason Karl Lagerfeld is king, and this collection is a stellar demonstration of the unexpected twists and turns of this imaginative powerhouse. Swept up in the poetic movement created, I can’t help but feel breathless satisfaction. 

      
      
New Jams: Gemma Hayes  “Out of Our Hands” show-stopping track from The Hollow of Morning and hit RCRD LBL for “Out of Our Hands” and “In Over My Head,” both featuring Kevin Shields. Wavves is getting a lot of buzz, and the new self-titled album may or may not have just leaked. Check out “So Bored,” “Wavves,” “Beach Demon,” and “Weed Demon.” Full-length available on 3 February. Click here for our music player.

 

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